Japan大阪

Osaka

Three nights of surprises, and the best meal of my life.

Osaka is louder and looser than Kyoto, and it surprised us at every turn: the first plum blossoms of the season at the castle, an aquarium unlike any I’d seen, and a dinner in Kobe that only happened because a day trip went sideways.

Where we stayed

InterContinental Osaka

3 nights · January 27–30

Another upscale stay, which became a theme of this trip, since most of our group preferred nicer hotels. Breakfast, service, and rooms were all excellent. Truly, no complaints. It’s also close to the train station, which made arriving with luggage simple. I’d happily stay again.

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The Dotonbori canal at dusk, lined with signs and a yellow Ferris wheel — Dotonbori, OsakaPhotography by Mile & Marque.

Day 1January 27

Umeda, a head spa, and Namba

The train ride from Kyoto was a joy in itself. Japan’s trains never stopped delighting us. After checking in, we wandered Grand Front Osaka, a sleek shopping complex beside Osaka Station, then headed to my appointment at Head Spa KUU in Umeda.

A Japanese head spa is a long, meticulous scalp treatment, somewhere between a facial and the best shampoo of your life. For me, it was a must. The space was spotless, my therapist was thorough and happy to answer all my questions, and I left with the cleanest scalp and softest hair I’ve ever had. My only complaint is that it ended.

In the evening we explored Namba and Dotonbori, the neon-lit canal district, then walked Shinsaibashi-suji, a covered shopping arcade. I’ll admit the arcade overwhelmed me. It seems to go on for miles, and many of the stores repeat. Don’t feel obligated to walk the whole thing. We did, so you don’t have to.

Grand Front Osaka
Head Spa KUU Umeda
Namba
Dotonbori
Shinsaibashi-suji

Deep pink plum blossoms on bare branches against a blue sky — Plum blossoms, Osaka Castle ParkPhotography by Mile & Marque.

Day 2January 28

Osaka Castle, Shinsekai, and the aquarium

Osaka Castle and its grounds are beautiful. We admired the castle from the outside rather than going in, since castle interiors we’d seen before hadn’t been worth it, and here the architecture is the real draw. On the grounds, we were lucky enough to catch the very first plum blossoms of the season. They were lovely, and their fragrance was incredible.

Then we wandered Shinsekai, a retro neighborhood beneath Tsutenkaku tower, and Kuromon Market, known as Osaka’s kitchen. We also visited Amerikamura, a youth-culture neighborhood, and it’s a definite skip for me. It felt like one of the least clean corners of Japan, and there wasn’t much to do. I wouldn’t spend your time there.

We finished at Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan, which was surprisingly wonderful, even for adults. I had never seen whale sharks displayed quite like this, and we spent a long while simply watching them glide past.

Osaka Castle
Shinsekai
Tsutenkaku
Kuromon Market
Amerikamura
Kaiyukan

A marbled cut of Kobe beef on a wooden board beside its certificate — Royal Mouriya, KobePhotography by Mile & Marque.

Day 3January 29姫路・神戸

Himeji, and the best meal of my life in Kobe

Himeji Castle, one of Japan’s few original castles, was a disappointment for me. The exterior is handsome but not breathtaking, and the interior is very plain, with little to see beyond a lot of wood. We also visited Koko-en, the garden beside the castle, which I’d skip in January. Nearly everything was dormant, and while the photos on display showed it looking surreal in spring, summer, and fall, in winter it felt rather dull. There isn’t much of a town to explore, either. In January, I’d skip Himeji altogether.

And yet, because we went to Himeji, we found Kobe along the way and decided, almost on a whim, to stop for a Kobe beef dinner. It turned out to be the best meal I have ever had, and the highlight of the trip by far. It was worth the detour a thousand times over.

We went to Royal Mouriya. You choose your cut, and it arrives with its certificate of authenticity, its nose print (essentially the cow’s birth certificate), and even its family tree. Then it’s cooked in front of you, to perfection. The scallops were every bit as extraordinary. It’s still one of the most talked-about experiences of the whole trip.

Himeji Castle
Koko-en Garden
Kobe
Royal Mouriya

If I were planning it again

InterContinental Osaka: Upscale, near the station, and flawless. I’d stay again.
Head Spa KUU: A must. My only complaint is that it ended.
Shinsaibashi-suji: No need to walk the whole arcade.
Osaka Castle: Admire it from outside, and give the grounds your time.
Kaiyukan: Wonderful, even for adults. Go for the whale sharks.
Kobe: Royal Mouriya is worth any detour.
Amerikamura: Not worth your time.
Himeji & Koko-en: Skip both in January. Save them for spring, summer, or fall.

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